"Even standing within it, we appear so decoupled from our own quintessence - that original seamlessness in nature - that both our and its existences seem just that, separate entities."

The breaking wave is a temporal impermanent manifestation of the natural world where the activity of surfing is taking place.

Mark Stone



Belinda Baggs has a chat with Wayne Lynch and Kimi Werner on the love of their sport, the ocean and the vulnerability of the ecosystem we all play a part in effecting.



11”20’

“So in essence you kind of do lose yourself in the moment?”

“That’s true. You just become everything that’s happening, and you forget about your own sense of self, to some degree”





"Just as our body needs to breathe, our soul requires the fulfilment and expansion of its existence in the reverberations of emotional life" (Ditherly, 1985, p. 59)


Dilthey, W., In Makkreel, R. A., In Rodi, F., Dilthey, W., & Dilthey, W. (1985). Poetry and experience.




David Abram




"At this curious moment in the world’s unfolding, when human violence toward other humans is matched only by our violence toward the living earth—with terrestrial and oceanic ecosystems rapidly collapsing under the weight of our steady assaults, and with countless species tumbling into oblivion as a result of our arrogant disregard—it is now evident that our own species must undergo a sea change if anything of beauty is to survive." (Abram, 2014, p. ix)



Vakoch, D. A., & In Castrillón, F. (2014). Ecopsychology, phenomenology, and the environment: The experience of nature.

the strangeness of time


"Time, unfortunately, though it makes animals and vegetables bloom and fade with amazing punctuality, has no such simple effect upon the mind of man. The mind of man, moreover, works with equal strangeness upon the body of time. An hour, once it lodges in the queer element of the human spirit, may be stretched to fifty or a hundred times its clock length; on the other hand, an hour may be accurately represented on the timepiece of the mind by one second."


Woolf, V. (1929). Orlando: A biography. Leipzig: B. Tauchnitz.

to know....and 'to know'



"In contrast to notions of an objective reality, Husserl suggests that it is in fact only our experience of the world – namely, direct and subjective human experience – that is ‘knowable’."


"Heidegger was instead interested in exploring what it means to live in and among a world that is experienced by each individual in their own way. "




New Zealand?



"Being in New Zealand, there were smiles all around. "


A sentence to marvel at. And the article it comes from is pretty good as well I reckon






"She is not interested in how late capitalism can be made “sustainable”, or whether nuclear power is better than windpower. Rather, she is asking a bigger, and far more important, question: can we understand the world as a place that is alive? Can we begin to perceive and relate to other forms of consciousness, both in the tiny lives of creatures such as moths and, more controversially, in the planet itself?" 



quoted from http://www.newstatesman.com/culture/books/2016/02/what-green-man-can-teach-us-about-our-place-world




Surfing gives us “a sense of place and region… a profound insistence on authenticity, a way of believing in an identity our culture does not reward and ... asking understanding of values and disciplines that don’t answer our sense of what one does with a life” (p. 117)

Duane, D. (1996). Caught inside: A surfer's year on the California coast. New York: North Point Press.







As surfers, every time we venture into the waves, we are embarking on a journey. The psychological connotations of this journey are an aspect of my current PhD research.






Those with ecological rooted identities are more likely to care for the natural world  (Brymer et al, 2009).




Brymer, E., Downey, G., & Gray, T. (2009). Extreme sports as a precursor to environmental sustainability. Journal of Sport and Tourism, 14(2–3), 1–12.